A dive back into the realm of world whiskies was long awaiting, with a flavour profile that is influenced by a sub-tropical climate, the coastal ocean air and made from water that flows from mountains blanketed in snow. The distillery and the expression itself finds its origins from the far East, not as extreme as Japan but a wee bit closer, the island country of Taiwan and its infamous Kavalan Distillery!

The Kavalan distillery was built in 2005 in Yilan County, situated in the northeastern region of Taiwan. The distillery began distilling their spirits soon after and had their first release in 2008. The distillery takes a very musical theme to describe some of their expressions, with the first Concertmaster released in 2009 – their Port Cask Finish. Their Sherry Cask Finish was their second release under the concertmaster range and was introduced a decade later, in 2019.

The subtropical climate here at the distillery deviates from the temperate weather one would expect at “whisky’s Eden garden.” This increased temperature and humidity poses a more pronounced maturation, further boosting the age of the whisky – meaning you can’t strictly compare them to their scottish counterparts; another commonality as to why most tropical and subtropical regions release expressions barring any age. Coming back to this Concertmaster, this one is matured in ex-bourbon casks before being finished in spanish Sherry Barrels.

Abv : 40%

Eye : Tawny | Non Chill Filtered, Natural Colouring

Nose : Vanilla, plums with hints of caramel; rum ‘n raisins with malt rubbed in with burnt char. Traces of milk chocolate and port wine, with hints of pepper, cinnamon, wood, and spice.

Taste : Medicinal at first, soon followed by dark stone fruits and brown sugar; hints of licorice seem mixed in with spiced peppery notes. Leather, smoke and grapes are left lingering on the palate.

Finish : Medium to Long | Winey with woodied influences paired with a sweet and warm feel.

The Kavalan is a rather one sided tuple, strongly influenced from its time in sherried casks. There’s certainly good breadth and depth with a host of dried fruits, grapes and spiced notes emanating from the drink as you sip along. But I somehow feel the lack of accomplishment, possibly a bit light bodied or a mouthfeel that isn’t as cohesive. There’s flavour in here, but it lacks that rounded, wholesome feel that comes only with age.

At AUD 120, this is a sherry lovers dram; but it does come in a bit steep in my view, especially at the watered down 40% bottling. The concertmaster sherry cask finish does have promise but wasn’t able to carry itself through. This is possibly just me, but I’m more than happy to stand corrected.

Slainte!