It took a second visit to Queensland, a work trip, that had me catch a glimpse, a dark blur of what later (on second glance) was an unorthodox shaped bottle. The last time I entered this very shop at the airport, plus a few runs around the local liquor stores yielded nothing more than crickets, and this too was not more than a month ago. I assume Queensland’s craft whiskies are still in adolescent territory, a stretch away from the other main stream Aussie whiskies. But in saying that this little weirdo of a bottle is a bit of a hidden gem, having had moments of fame in the international scene –  in 2018, 2020 and 2021.

Mark Watkins built the Mt Uncle Distillery early this century in 2001, in far North Queensland, a distillery that is still independently owned. The distillery sources their barley indigenously, with water from the Atherton Tablelands. The spirit once distilled, is matured for over seven years in French Oak Barriques that previously aged wine, and then is further finished in American oak hogshead for a set period of time.

Mind you both Barriques and Hogsheads are roughly the same size, around 225 litres, though traditionally, the former has been used to age wine, while the latter bourbon. The seven year maturation is atypical, as most Australian whiskies aren’t aged beyond the 3-5 yr period. This coupled with the rather humid and warmer climates fastens aging which aids in layering a lot more complexity, and character, but does risk it being overly woody if not vatted well.

The bottle has this weird, almost medieval like styling; bell shaped with a long neck, coloured in a dark brown shade. It isn’t eye candy but I’m sure it’s unique yet oddly shaped styling does have its own appeal and is a standout – it certainly caught my eye!

Eye : Mahogony | Natural Colouring

Nose : Caramel intertwined with varnished wood, cardamom and cinnamon. Quiet spicy with licorice and cloves, dried fruits, cola and some rye too.

Taste : Vanilla with a heavy woodied note. Orange zest infused with cinnamon, bay leaves, cardamom and red wine influences. Strong black licorice notes with herbal-medicinal undertones.

Finish : Medium | Spice and warm, mildly dry with woody notes

The Watkins is an unorthodox expression, unique and bold. The single malt is loaded with spices, adorns a woody character and is heavily influenced by red wine on the palate. There’s a pinch of sweetness and traces of dried fruits in the mix, but that does not distract you from the wood, almost polarising, maybe more than I can handle. I see it being complex in its own right but does not attract attention.

At AUD 170 and seven years of maturation, this one seemed like a heavy hitter, a Goliath, a blue chip of sorts but unfortunately failed to rack in the mullah. I’m sure the distillery does make some great stuff, but this was not one that I could turn too. Too woody, non congruent and very medicinal, it pushed me away from the get go. I am disappointed with this one unfortunately.

I’m keen to see what you have to say about this one!!

Slainte Mhath!