Review : Pokeno Alchemy

A conglomeration of chemical interactions, beginning with the malting of barley, a process that initiates the breakdown of complex starch molecules to simpler sugars. These simpler sugars are then consumed by yeast, leading to an alcoholic fermented mix, called wash. This bubbly brew is poured into large copper pot stills; which kick starts a series of reactions between the wash and the copper tubes as it oxidises some of the heavier, more unpleasant compounds. The distillate is then poured into barrels where it begins the process of “spoiling”, as it comes in contact with the charred wood, air and moisture.

The series of events seem like a multicoloured burst of a confetti, some would call it a hodgepodge, almost seeming to be a play of random events thrown into a cement mixer, but is in fact an alchemy that has been practised, endured and cherished for centuries.

Pokeno is an expression from our neighbours to the South West, and the Alchemy is a testament to these  many interactions, more so between wood and whisky that has made this whisky what it is. The whisky is a blend of spirits matured in six different casks – Pedro Ximenez sherry butts and hogsheads, light and medium toasted Virgin American Oak barrels, and ruby and tawny port barriques. The outcome is a rich, dark coloured spirit representing diversity that is both bold and rich. This also seems to resonate well with its radiant splash of tropical greens, yellows and reds, enveloping both bottle and box.

ABV : 46%

Eye :  Chestnut Oloroso Sherry | Natural Colouring , Non Chill Filtered

Nose : Caramel, and rum n’ raisins, bay leaves with a pinch of spice. There’s cardamom, and nutmeg; plums black currents, milk chocolate and  caramel toffee, infused with earthy wooden notes and a dab of white pepper.

Taste : Brown sugar, molasses and dried fruits, featuring a mix of plums, dates, and figs. There’s marshmallows, rum n’ raisins , chocolate, and grape wine with a sense of dryness on the palate. Some spice from bay leaves, mild zest, woody tannin, along with faint hints of pepper.

Finish : Medium to Long | Desert wine, with a mild whisper of spice; some woodiness, layered with sweet caramel.

A lovely concoction of lush sweetness emanating from dried fruits and chocolate, with good depth, viscosity and complexity. There’s not a lot of tropical play, but the spirit dwells in the realms of sherries and wines. Interestingly sweet and spicy, more so on the nose, very enjoyable; however it can seem to be a bit heavy with time due to its sweet and deep character that tends to build as you progress. If you love your sherries this will surely fit well, but if not then you might want to swipe right.

At AUD $95 it is a steal, a bargain, and a dram that presented well. I find the use of multiple barrels have given well rounded, smooth attributes, the core of which is influenced by the PX and Tawny casks with some balance and restraint coming in from the virgin American oak. Give it a try, I’m sure the sherry lovers will find this a delight.

Slainte!

Leave a comment